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 I met my first Uruguayan friend Natalia Gonzalez in November 2003. Natalia kept my speaking Spanish alive when it was on the wane. Natalia often spoke to me about the ability of Uruguayan physiotherapists. Eventually, in 2005 I decided to put trust in her opinion and take a trip to her country. I left Portlaoise on 23/11/2005 for Uruguay with my own firm unyielding agnostic beliefs and Natalia's sister Fernanda for company on the way. The flight was about 15 hours in total with a stopover in Madrid. Sapping for a person in good health let alone anyone who had MS.
Eventually we arrived in Carrasco International airport Montevideo. It was strange seeing Christmas decorations in the sun but then again it was summertime there! There was a complete welcoming committee of four generations of Natalia's extended family. I had heard of an Irish welcome but this surpassed my expectations! I had become part of another family-adopted!! After getting to know the family. Eating and resting Alberto (Natalia's father) set about driving me to my final destination Punta del Este about 2 hours journey from Montevideo. For decades Punta del Este has had fame in South America for its upscale and exclusive resort tradition, and the wealth of its summer visitors. Shakira and Julio Iglesias among those tourists at regular intervals. Expensive by local standards, Punta del Este is attractively priced compared to European and USA resorts. Punta del Este, Uruguay is called the St. Tropez (Riviera France) of Uruguay for its miles of beautiful, pristine beaches. But I had not come to sunbathe! I had come to put myself in better shape over the coming weeks.
Uruguay is a small country like Ireland with a similar population 3.3 million people. Uruguay is a beautiful country, 30° south of the Equator, is a green retreat between the Atlantic and the River Plate basin and next door to its bigger neighbours Argentina and Brazil. Uruguay occupies the sixth place in the World Ranking of the Environmental Sustainability Index 2002, according to Study presented by the universities of Yale and Columbia (U.S.A.) covering a total of 142 nations. I can tell you that there are few places on this planet where you will inhale fresher air into your lungs. On a planet that is running out of fresh water, Uruguay is a fresh water paradise. A dense network of rivers, streams and lakes, shapes the landscape. Slightly rolling hills divide the valleys of the larger rivers and their hundreds of tributaries, irrigate a vast natural prairie. But my trip was not to be about sightseeing or turning green either but rather about slowing down the progression of my MS.
I was looking for some sort of rehabilitation for my Primary Progressive MS. I had been to Cuba in 2001 for similar treatment. Cuba appeared to have the best treatment for PPMS in the world. My opinion was about to change radically. I was about to get a little of my life back that I had lost over the last few years.
The first morning there I was awoken by the sounds of a multitude of different sounding birds. It was like an orchestra of beautiful shrilling music. Birds chattering, chirping, trilling and cheeping everywhere. Bird songs that were beginning to brighten up my day even though it had not started yet!!
In the Guarani language, Uruguay means "river of the painted birds". The first inhabitants of this territory invented words to praise nature. Words to describe the birds and the sounds of this world not yet trampled-on by the white man. The colourful plumage of the native birds must have surely dazzled them and history took that name to describe this beautiful country. There were so many species that I just gave up asking about them.
The garden where I stayed was full of flowers, trees, shrubs and herbs. I had arrived in the Garden of Eden! But there was even better to come! The 25th of November 2005, will always be a date that I keep in my calendar, a kind of watershed with this disease. On that date I met the best physiotherapist that I have encountered with this illness by the name of Mercedes Carolina Rey de Rivera. Mercedes can be contacted at the following address: Libertad y Leandro Gomez, S/N Maldonado Nuevo, Maldonado, Republica Oriental De Uruguay. She does not speak a lot of English but I attempted to teach her some basics such as numbers.
We began our treatment with a quick conversation about my problems. She then made a profound statement about my particular problems and pointed out with regard to exercises that the brain could never be ignored. The penny dropped with me. After all there were plaques in front of my brain. I knew that after writing and publishing a book on the subject (Bright Clouds-a good read if you have time!) but had probably ignored it in regard to exercises. She would remedy that over the next few weeks. Coordination of mind, body and spirit would be involved. She looked at the illness as a friend that had problems. Her approach was fresh, innovative and often inspiring.
Mercedes was a very spiritual and religious person who was gifted in focussing in not only on the physical but also your spirit. She is an Adventist. My spirit had been weakened by the illness but I had not realised by how much. She gave me back some faith in God that I had lost over the years. It was amazing the change in me physically that occurred over the first week in the company of this woman. I became steady on my feet and was able to take a shower standing up for the first time in years
Her exercises were simple! All of them could be done at home without sophisticated equipment. For example she used a thin rolling pin that I used for my feet. The toes in my left foot are now really working thanks to a rolling pin! My right ones are still trying! She laughed when I called my right foot the prodigal son! She used dance as a form of exercise for balance and steadiness on my feet. I am also now able to get up from my seat without holding on to it .She provided me with physiotherapy up to two hours daily, 6 days a week resting on her Sabbath day the Saturday. I am not cured but my God I am much better than before I went. I will continue with this regime on a daily basis until my next visit.
I began to wonder once more about how bad the Irish Health service was for people with PPMS. It concentrates on filling people up with cocktails of medicine and brutally ignores the physical, spiritual and mental state of people. Then I ask myself where is the first world and where is the third world? Why can't I get treatment like this in my own country? Why must I go to the other side of the world to find treatment? Why? In Ireland we are a modern country that has forgotten the basics in medicine. There has to be a holistic approach in all levels of medicine. Once month physiotherapy in my country is a shocking insult to me and 10% of the MS population that suffer from this type in Ireland. Up to approximately 600 people according to statistics but I believe more. Are we not worth considering? Let's just look after 90%? The present treatment for people with PPMS serves no purpose and is just going through the motions. Physiotherapists here like neurologists are under immense pressure. Anyone in Europe with PPMS have the same problems? Enough of my bickering!! But it has to be said.
The setting, location, personal, food (meat and fish really) etc. Almost everything was in order here. Uruguay is one of the most civilised countries I have visited. It was a country whose people were very aware and helpful to people with a disability. One bank had even an elevator for disabled people like myself. It is definitely the most beautiful country I have ever visited. Probably one of the best reading countries in the world given there is a book shop on every corner.
Mercedes is a physiotherapist that will help a lot of people with PPMS. Try it you will not be disappointed. My hosts and friends Alberto and his wife Cristina and their daughter Fernanda must also take the kudos for the success of this trip. I love you Uruguay! Anyone who wants to find out more contact me at tejo@eircom.net
There was only one sad image that I saw one night in Montevideo, which contradicted some of the beautiful lasting images in my mind. It was of children who encircled me at the traffic lights begging to give them change.
An estimated 62,000 children in Uruguay are working on the streets, orphaned, or being forced into prostitution. One out of two children live below the poverty line, and six out of 10 children are born into the slums as a result of Uruguay's present economic crisis. So I suppose no place is perfect in this imperfect world.
Before I came home I went shopping in Maldonado. While I was there I heard beautiful classical music being played on the second floor. It was if the Pied Piper was leading me there! So I followed spell bound! Boy was I happy! There were some local lads from the local Catholic Church playing Bach with violins. Magic and mesmerising. An Argentinean woman named Isabel singing some Tangos and Milongas followed this. I happened to run into her on the way to the toilet and we conversed for a few minutes about music and writing.
When she returned on stage she told the audience that there was a writer in our midst. A writer from Ireland named Pat Dwyer! I turned scarlet! She sang Don't Cry for me Argentina in Spanish. After that a group of Mexican Mariachis began singing. The sang one song and were abut to go when I pleaded with them to sing El Rey(The King). They turned back came close to me and started to sing it to me. Prompting me to join in and the lead singer placed his hat on top of my head. If I died that moment I would have been happy as some happy tears rolled down my face. It impelled me to write a black humorous poem on my death stating leave my heart in Ireland but my soul in Uruguay! If you have PPMS it would be worth a visit but Spanish is almost essential for a comfortable trip. VIVA URUGUAY!
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